A road where one walks alone is beautiful. Each step that one takes is imbued with the power of the earth, each thing passing by a stoic moment of farewell. The scent of grass fills the road with the expectation of life to come. When one steps freely without being beholden to anything, it is perfectly okay to hesitate, for no matter where one goes, one’s steps will bring one to sceneries untold. There lies history unknown, and thoughts untapped. That’s why it is so beautiful to walk alone. Here are some of the roads in Busan where one can walk alone.

Thinking back to the bloody year on Dongnaeeupseong Trail

Busan was the first place in Korea to feel the destruction and death brought by the Imjin War, the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. Dongnae Historical Park is a place where one can trace the history of the war. After nearly 400 years, the blood of the battlefield has already been washed away, replaced by an idyllic refuge for the people of Busan. The trail starts from Insaengmun Gate of Dongnaeeupseong Walled Town. The gate has an interesting name: “Life” According to local folklore, refugees who fled the invasion through the pass upon which Insaengmun Gate stands are all said to have survived the brutalities of the invasion. When one passes through the gate and follows the road, one meets a forest trail. Beyond the small hill lies a massive structure that resembles a pyramid This is the Busan March First Independence Movement Monument. Its construction began on August 15, 1995, the 50th anniversary of Korean Independence, and was completed on March 1 the following year. The juxtaposition of the horrors of the Imjin War and the defiance of the Korean people, exemplified by the March First Independence Movement Monument, gives on a glimpse into the recurring message in Korean history.

The path beyond leads to Bukjangdae Command Post, a historical command post. Because of its characteristics, it offers the best view of the area around Dongnaeeupseong Walled Town. When one stands on the command post, one can see the skyline of the city beyond the fortifications, stretching from Jangsan Mountain to Hwangnyeongsan Mountain and Geumjeongbong Peak. Enjoy the open view, and follow the walls where history lives on to the North Gate, the only gate in Dongnaeeupseong Walled Town that retains its original appearance. Follow the gentle hills to reach Seojangdae Command Post, a building retaining the beauty of hanok. This is not the end of the walk. The area near Dongnae Historical Park has many other places to see, including the Dongnae-bu Magistrate's Office, Dongnaeeupseong History Hall, Jang Yeong-sil Science Garden, Ancient Tombs in Bokcheon-dong, Dongnaehyanggyo Local Confucian School, and Chungnyeolsa Shrine. Where to head next, I wonder.

Follow the trail to find yourself at Beomeosa Trail

Beomeosa Trail is made up of four sections (2.3km), namely the Space of Emptying (Section 1), Space of Meditation (Section 2), Becoming One with Nature (Section 3), and Peace of Heart (Section 4). The trail starts from Beomeosa Temple. Said to be founded by the Great Monk Uisang in the Silla Period, Beomeosa Temple is said to be one of the three foremost temples of the Gyeongnam region, along with Haeinsa Temple and Tongdosa Temple. It is also known as the temple where Manhae Han Yong-un, a respected independence activist and poet, spent a part of his life: the temple is accordingly considered as a starting point of the March 1st Independence Movement in the Busan area. I become a pilgrim and circle the temple grounds to empty my heart of clutter. Walking in a tranquil mountain monastery is always a calming and soothing experience. After leaving Beomeosa Temple, follow the curved roads to find the Beomeosa Trail signboard. A narrow path winds into the nearby forest. When one climbs onto the wooden deck, one immediately feels the refreshing air of the forest. The rhythmical sound of water flowing imparts its tune into one’s steps. One can step down into the valley and embrace the soothing coolness of the water, or head to Beomnidan-gil Street for its collection of cafes inside the forest.

Otherwise, follow the road to find the Meditation Space. This expansive circular deck is a great place to enjoy a forest bath, or close one’s eyes to turn one’s gaze inward. In the darkness, one feels the branches in the wind, the singing birds, and the things one had not realized before to be closer than ever to one’s heart. I open my eyes and turn my gaze to the scenery of Beomeosa Trail. Unfortunately, it is almost time to descend from the mountain.

Follow the history on Geumgang Park Hiking Trail

Geumgang Park is located below Geumjeongsan Mountain. Its moniker, “the Lesser Geumgang,” comes from the visitors marveling at its beauty. Geumgang Park’s cable car system has been the most popular site for people to enjoy the view of Busan.

When one follows the pine forest trail from the main gate of Geumgang Park, one finds a number of monuments, including one dedicated to the pioneer of modern Korean medicine Ji Seok-yeong. Another monument is dedicated to the souls lost to the brutalities of Japanese imperialism. There must be a reason as to why this monument is located in Geumgang Park. Indeed, following the trail to the badminton court toward the summit brings one to a signboard detailing the historical sites related to Japanese imperialist violence in Geumgang Park. One then finds the former site of Dokjindaeamun Gate and Geumgang Pond. Geumgang Park actually originates from Dongnae Geumgangwon, a private garden established by Japanese tobacco tycoon Higashibara Gajiro in the 1920s. Higashibara used the water from the valley to build a Japanese-style pond and a tower. He was also the one who established the monument for the 2600th anniversary of the founding of Japanese Imperial Rule. Higashibara even relocated Dokjindaeamun Gate, rebuilt by the Magistrate of Dongnae Jeong Hyeon-deok, under the pretense of urban reorganization to his garden. The reason why Geumgang Park bears these traces is because Geumgang Park was intended to be a center of the region’s tourism with the opening of Dongnae Hot Springs.

I swallow the bitter taste in my mouth, and start walking toward the mountain once more. The climb is quite difficult until one reaches Neoreok Rock, a place famous for its scenic views. Past that is cable car station. There’s a convenience store next to the station, so one can purchase some drinks to quench one’s thirst. The way down leads toward Cheongnyongsa and Sorimsa Temples. At the end of the road, one finds the Tombs of Patriotic Martyrs of the Imjin War in Dongnae, a communal grave of defenders who fell during the defense of Busan in the Imjin War.

As I step out of the main gate, I look back to my lone walk, a time that allowed me to step closer to history because I was alone.