Also called the “rice thief” by some, salted pollack roe (myeongnanjeot) has a loyal following because of its savory and salty flavor that pairs perfectly with rice. However, did you know that Busan’s Dong-gu is the origin of this dish? In the 1900s, Choryang was the site of Busan’s first industrial warehouse, where all pollack caught in Korean waters were processed. People began to experiment with the nutritious roe of pollack, resulting in the famous salted pollack roe. Trace the origins of salted pollack roe in Choryang Myeongnan Road!

Built in the 1900s, Namseon Warehouse served as an industrial seafood storage building and housed the largest supply of pollack in southern Korea at that time. It consisted of five buildings, with a system of artificial waterways built in to ensure a consistent temperature in the warehouse. At that time, pollack roe was an overflowing side product of the pollack trade, and the people of Busan naturally developed ways to process and eat them. During the period of Japanese Occupation, a Japanese living in Choryang imported the salted pollack roe tradition to Japan, which formed the origins of Japan’s mentaiko tradition. Unfortunately, Namseon Warehouse was demolished completely in 2009, and only a red wall stands as a reminder of its place in Busan’s modern history.

From the former site of Namseon Warehouse, the famous Choryang Ibagu-gil Road branches out. Choryang Ibagu-gil Road’s Mural Alley is an outdoor gallery where Choryang’s modern history is inscribed along the winding alleyways of the neighborhood. As you travel back in time to Choryang’s history while you walk along the walls, you will eventually arrive at the 168 Stairs. This steep staircase was the only path connecting the informal settlements built along the slope of the mountain to the rest of the city. Today, a red monorail system runs along the 168 Stairs, a stark reminder of how Busan has developed over the years.

At the end of the 168 Stairs is Ibagu Chungjeonso, the perfect place to experience the taste of Choryang’s salted pollack roe. The Myeongnan Self-Cooking Class is held here, and the star of the class is the salted pollack roe pasta. All ingredients and utensils are available on site, so all you have to do is follow the lecturer’s instructions. Information on Choryang Myeongnan Road tours can be found in the Busan Bus Tour website.

Salted pollack roe pasta is actually easy to make! Boil the pasta noodles, and drain out the water. In a pan, fry onions, garlic, and other aromatics in olive oil until the kitchen is filled with tantalizing fragrances. Afterward, throw in the pasta noodles and salted pollack roe, and stir-fry the mixture for a bit to bring the flavors together.

You can also grab a bite of salted pollack roe on the second floor of the Ibagu Chungjeonso building. On the second floor, a unique and comfortable design is brought about by the old houses of Busan. It is partitioned to respect the privacy of the guests as well. Put some pasta on your plate, and enjoy the texture and the freshness of pollack roe.
From the origins of salted pollack roe in the Namseon Warehouse site to the self-cooking class at the end of the Choryang Myeongnan Road, choose this course if you’re looking for an interesting experience in Busan. You can even treat yourself to a view of Busan’s mountainside road from the top of the stairs!